Tuesday, 19 July 2016

Jumper, jacket or hoodie

McCalls 6614 has been in my stash for a while so while doing a few weekend chores these projects diverted my attention.
The front photo on the pattern doesn't really show these tops up to well but the line drawings do.


This grey top was the test run using a discounted Winter fabric I bought at The Fabric Store a few years ago. 
The fabric has odd lines running through it so I placed the pattern pieces with the lines running up and not across.

Then I played with the back and sleeves to include a bit of reflective tape and white cover stitching.
With flash, you can see the reflective tape

With no flash, the tape is simply piping
Technically speaking, I adjusted the sleeve length by 5cm and the top length by 2cm.

When I saw this print on IG from Darn Cheap Fabrics earlier this year I ran their store and ordered this whole kit.
I'm still not sure what to do with the trim gift.
The only problem was I didn't order enough rib knit for the cuffs so I substituted this with blue lycra fabric from the stash.
The finished jacket
The jacket has a hood that I didn't want so I drafted up a simple collar as the substitute.
The jacket is quite heavy and great for cold days.
This meant I needed to be creative with the back neckline so again with a bit of stash diving, I used this elastic as the finish.
Great tush cover
No seam edges were finished because there was no need to finish them. I didn't want to add bulk and hence waste time when I really should have been doing my weekend chores.
The pockets work!
So to finish off the weekend I dragged out my Fabricline.com fabric purchases and made this top for a new Winter running layer.
This blue is a bit Star Trek.
Beam me up!
This fabric has good wicking properties so I cut this out and sewed it up within about three hours.
You can just see the reflective piping with no flash

Now you can see the reflective piping
Again I used the coverstitching and used the white thread as the contrast.
The leggings pattern is Vogue 1378
I'll tell you about these leggings (Vogue 1378 Donna Karan) in the next post. I made them late last Winter and then forgot to post up my little review.

Thursday, 7 July 2016

Enjoying colour again

A lovely Cynthia Rowley pattern; a hint of John Kaldor crinkle satin; all added a spot of colour with my Minerva Crafts project this month.
I chose this pattern because it's a set of versatile patterns in one purchase and the reviews for the top have been positive. I love both pieces.
The other thing I like about this set of patterns is whether I have shape or not, this style will create shape for me.


Finding fabric on the Minerva Crafts website is always distracting. There are lots of prints and plains to choose from and new fabrics just keep popping up all the time. I end up ignoring the housework when I'm planning my next projects because it's so easy to trawl through their range.

Fabrics

This print comes in a black colourway as well and I just happened to be checking out the different colourway of their print ranges and was awed by this print.
John Kaldor OrientalFloral Crinkle Satin dress fabric

Rosaline 3505 Red
In real life, this print is much more stunning but the colours are just as strong as they appear on the Minerva Crafts website.


Soft ponteroma jersey stretch for the pants
MVPC30 Black

The pants

If you've made leggings before the pants are basic except there's a zipper along the centre back seam. This zipper is quite handy when you have a ponte with very little stretch like this one. This ponte is not activewear. It's daywear so the zipper is a great feature.
The exposed zipper instructions in Simplicity 1104 were dead set accurate so I was thrilled with the results. What you see here is a closer view of the back with room for my 'shape'.
The pants on this pattern end above the ankle. It's now Winter here so I've kept the leg length at the ankle.

The top

This is the true feature of this pattern.
I did a mock up to finalise the shaping for this top using a cotton print. The beauty of this pattern is its colour and print.

What you can see above is a few shots I took of this print so I could get the print placement right.
I spent a quite evening at home tracing out the final front piece so the front pattern is one piece and not on the fold.
Here's a close up of the print on the front.
And the back view below.
I followed the back print so the dark leaves were on my back waistline.

Darts

You can just see the neckline adjustment in this shot.
I used a cotton fabric for the underlayer because this John Kaldor is a crinkle fabric which means it can lose shape so this top now has a firm lining. The under fabric will also make sure any Summer sweat is kept off the outer fabric.
You can just see the blue markings from the tracing paper.
The blue markings were also handy on the main fabric too.
Awesome pattern and I've really enjoyed working with this print - it's stunning.

Sunday, 3 July 2016

Vogue Sport and running

There's a link between these two topics that I'll let you in on.

This week I was tapering for a half-marathon that I finished this morning. What's the link?
Tapering is when you train less leading up to an event. There is a link here.

In May, when I tapered for the Sydney half-marathon I made a coat with colour that needed lots of hand stitching. 
The hand stitching kept me sane in the lead up to the run.
This is the 'before' shot from the May run.
This week I cut out this Vogue Sports top and slowly made it up so that I could taper and not crave endorphins - that's the link.
As an aside, a colleague sent me this story about how women are taking over running because he was chuffed that I decided to do two half marathons this year.

Anyway, the pattern was a gift and it was printed in 1991. So this pattern is older than 20 years so it's part of my Vintage Pattern Pledge.
Sewing this fabric wasn't too hard. I used a straight stitch and used stretch needles. The hems are coverstitched.
I've paired this top with my RTW skinny jeans.
The hood is huge or I'm just small. I used the shortening lines to make the sleeves the right length. I've kept the bodice long because this is a Winter top
There's no shaping but no the seams don't need finishing. And now I'm just ready to chill.
Here's the after shot from this morning's run.
The course was flat and the weather was nippy but fine. The organisers made this morning's run feel like a huge party.
I'm glad I used my tapering time to make this vintage top for Winter. And that's my story about Vogue Sport and running.

Thanks to everyone for being so supportive today.

Thursday, 16 June 2016

1960s revisit

Last year Kyle and I bought this fabric at Elliott Berman in New York. 
Hopefully you've read Kyle's epic skirt posts. They're really detailed and quite helpful.
The neckline has piping and I've used a grey zipper.
The pattern Simplicity 2154 is one we both chose without knowing it. Minerva Crafts UK supplied the pattern for my April project.
Kyle's skirt posts are now my reference point for the pencil skirt so I made a test version using a fabric remnant from Pitt Trading
This fabric has great wool content and Kyle's allergic to wool so you can follow her techniques if you're also allergic to wool.
I find wool irritating so I followed Kyle's advice.
This skirt and jacket are made using Simplicity 2154.
This fabric has no stretch to it but I love the colours in it because they brighten up Winter grey. 
I used a quilting foot on my sewing machine to baste the lining to the fabric but not adding lining.
I used white thread for the inside and grey thread for the outside of the jacket. None of this stitching can be seen on the outside of the jacket.
See what I mean. I've still made the jacket as per the pattern but prepped the fabric before construction.
I'm not a fan of binding seam allowances but I did it for this jacket.
The hems also use bias binding too.

The lining was quilted for the jacket so it's quite boxy as you can tell from the back view.
Once I cut out the jacket, there was enough for the skirt. I made the most of this fabric.

Pockets

I think I have a 'thing' for pockets. Ok, you're allowed to chuckle.
Here's how I used a template to make the pockets curve nicely.


Here's how they worked out.

This is the final closeup of the pockets.
I have to say, this is the warmest suit I have in my wardrobe. The wool fabric is thick and with the lining and quilting, it's great for a mild Sydney Winter.
I had a meeting in the city and I teamed this suit with boots and I felt quite cosy.
I'm ready to put this pattern aside - for now.

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