Friday, 24 November 2017

Summer espadrilles

There was so much more to learn from Prym's dvd instruction video for espadrilles.

I received this pack and have only just had the chance to go through it in more detail. There is a Prym YouTube video that is great to get your started.
I watched this video when I made my first pair of espadrilles last year.

This year I have more Prym espadrille tools and the Prym dvd gave me a lot more information about making better 'store bought' espadrilles.
The dvd runs through the full details of making these 3 classic espadrilles. The information in this dvd gives you so much more information to make great espadrilles!
These are the Prym tools I had to work with. I'm quite grateful to the lovely people at Prym for providing these tools to make more espadrilles.
This Espadrille tool kit saved my fingers. Last time I made espadrilles, the stitching stressed my fingers. This year I had this tool kit and sewing through the sole and shoe fabric was much easier. See, I can still type out this blog post with no pain.
These are the pieces I worked with. These peep toe espadrilles have a denim outer fabric and a bold print on the inside of the show.

The back heel is a pre made piece.
This is nothing flash but it does blend into the colour of the sole and I did pair this with the same coloured ribbon.
The dvd showed me the right way to line the sole.
I made sure the print on the inside of the shoe matched.


The level of detail in the dvd was so handy.
My next challenge was making sure the toe finish was balanced.
I decided to add crotchet floral lace in the same colour as the heel to balance the design.

I was feeling very unsure about my choices here. Was there too much detail on this espadrille?

You can see I chose to use dark navy stitching thread.
Here's where the heel and toe pieces are pinned to the espadrille sole.
The ribbon is sewn to the outside of the heel piece so that it doesn't rub against the back of the foot.


Did I mention these espadrilles are a gift to a friend?
I felt it was important to present the final shoes in a beautiful box.

Here are the final espadrilles ready to be boxed up.
Wrapped in pretty blue tissue.
These are a great gift.
Now I'm just showing these off.

This dvd has so much useful information and has certainly helped make these espadrilles great.

Thanks Prym for providing me with these new espadrille tools. You can purchase these from Minerva Craft and use the discount code 'maria' to get 10% off any Prym purchase.


Monday, 20 November 2017

Rewind to bodycon era

I'm working my way through remnants and revisiting patterns I enjoy wearing.
This fabric was used in January 2016 for a skull lace jacket I still wear when there's a chill in the air.

I do wear this in the morning to the gym when it's still dark because I used reflective piping.

The skull lace still makes people look twice when I wear this jacket.
Back to the dress...as you can see I managed to successfully win at pattern tetris for this dress. This ponte is always stocked in lots of colours by Minerva Crafts.

I was also able to use zippers from my stash.
At this point I went back to see when I originally made this dress.
I originally made this dress in 2013 using View B.
That scared me because I wasn't sure if my shape had changed too much.
Not too bad from the back view #notamodel.
With a decent press, those zippers will lie flatter on this dress.

I'm happy with the fit of this dress but will certainly try my best to keep my shape in check.

I'll show you what View A looks like shortly.
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Monday, 13 November 2017

Gertie and a remnant

This dress is pieced together with remnants from fabric I bought from Pitt Trading.
Here's the original dress I made from this remnant so you can see the original print.
I decided to use this print to test the bodice fit and construction of Butterick 6453.
I've used my basic pencil skirt pattern with the pockets from Deer and Doe Belladone skirt.

When I tackled these remnants, it took some time to decide on what pattern to use across the dress.
Looking at the bodice, I wasn't sure this would work.
I didn't have enough of the print to have it run the full width of the bodice.
These are the pencil skirt pieces I used.
Again I wasn't sure how this would balance with the bodice.

At this point I sewed up the dress and did an initial bodice fit.
This was the moment I felt this dress might actually be a goer.
The pattern Butterick 6453 offers bodice facings. I've used calico to fully line the bodice.

The lining has plenty of boning in the seams so that it sits smoothly against my body sans bra.

See how it fits across the back bodice?
The side seams don't match but they do fit snugly.
If you're into detailing, you can see I've used a gold bias trim on the hem so the hemline looks consistent.

What you won't be able to see are the bronze metal bra notions on the dress straps.
When Summer holidays kick in this year I think I'll get a bit of wear from this dress.
Now to buy some fake tan spray.

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Monday, 6 November 2017

emerald and sapphire

I chose these fabrics from Selective Fine Fabrics in March when I did Susan Khalje's guipure lace skirt workshop in Brisbane.
This dress pattern is New Look 6000.
We finally had a wedding to wear this dress to and this dress was so easy to wear.

Lace Guipure piecing
The hand sewing took many hours to do.
This shows the hand tacked seam lines I used on the fabric.
This photo gives you a glimpse of the lace matching work that I had to do so the back lace is uninterrupted and fits my shape.

There are over 15 snaps used along the centre back lace so that the lace sits over the centre back zipper.
The neckline piecing was nail-biting but worth doing.
All the techniques I learnt in Susan's course have been used on at least 4 pieces I've made this year.

Now you know why working with guipure lace can be addictive.

The finished product will always be an original. Your original.
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Thursday, 2 November 2017

Perspective

Which way it the right way to use a large border print? This month I experimented with a large border John Kaldor print from Minerva Crafts on Sew Over It Eve dress.
The fun was strategically cutting out the pieces with this border print. I love this print.
I used to get 'hung up' on figuring out what the 'right way' to use a border print.
Rules are a great guide but sometimes I've been hampered by them.
Which way is up or where should the border print be placed.
I'm not tall so my options are limited on how I can use any print.
Internally I used French seams where possible. The fabric is light and soft so overlocking the seams made them feel thick and clunky.
The skirt is soft and flowy so French seams didn't weigh down this dress.

I used Prym Microtextil sharps needle. The 70/10 size from the mixed pack sewed through this fabric very smoothly.
The neckline finish uses Prym plain cotton tape (no facing) so again there's no bulk at the neckline. I chose the cotton tape and the tape weave is very sturdy so I was able to ease in the neckline across the bust.
The neckline across the bust hugs against me so I didn't need to do an adjustment, like I have with other neckline.
Now to pair this dress with my work jackets.

This is an easy dress to make for work if you can't find a thing to wear.

Thanks again Minerva Crafts. 

Don't forget to use 'maria' to get 10% off any Prym purchases from Minerva Crafts.

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