Tuesday, 2 September 2014

Vogue 1378 tech notes

This is a good Winter or trans-seasonal top Vogue 1378.
This style wraps you like a cocoon and this top needs to wrap you to stop the pleats looking baggy. I made the hip gathers pleats. I like pleats because they're flatter. 
I want to make both of these styles, but the top comes first.
I stash dived to check if this pattern's dimensions suited someone my height and shape. Petite. The version worn by the model has really long sleeves. There's a lot of sleeve length at her wrist. As it's the end of Winter, I want some sleeve overflow to cover me against the cold.

Coral test version:
I chose this fabric because it's strong enough to wear with dark colours. I now know this colour lifts my spiritsThis is pattern is fabric hungry so this fabric was a good choice.
I was a bit wary of the pleats on the hip but I bunched them where my back curves so there was no need for a sway back adjustment.

This is one of those pattern I needed to sew following the instructions to the letter. 
I couldn't find the waistline on the pattern pieces. The waist and hip points are usually marked on patterns and I use these points to make my usual length adjustment so I had to guess the petite adjustment for length.

I removed 8 1/2" off the hem. I checked how long my regular tee lengths are from under the sleeve to the hem and folded up the extra length. That actually worked on my shape. 
Good guess.

I removed an 1" out of the neckline pieces because this test version gaped. 

Finding the shoulder line was easy enough to make my usual roll shoulder adjustments on the shoulder line and on the sleeve head. I folded this out 2" at the elbow because I wanted the sleeve to hug my lower arm and wrist. This worked well too. 
Real version:
It's part of my September Minerva make :)  Stay tuned...

Monday, 1 September 2014

Jeans and heels

This very first pair (Jalie 2908) were a test and they're certainly a weekend staple. I made these in 2011.
These jeans were made to wear with flat shoes but these jeans don't look great with heels.
This second pair are also good to wear with my Converse shoes but not with heels.

I really wanted a pair of jeans to wear with heels. So out came Jalie 2908 for another make in 2014. 

Below is a pic of both pairs of jeans and while the roll cost $4, the denim colour has kept true to colour. You can see the new pair of jeans (WIP view) are longer. 

Adjustments:
Added 2" at mid calf level.
Lowered the front pockets by 1.5cm
Took out 1.5cm from centre back yoke
Top stitched everything possible.
Used rivets where possible because rivets help the jeans shape hold over time.
For a $4/roll of denim from The Remnant Warehouse, it's kept it colour really well.
This time I followed the Jalie instructions to sew in the zipper. I'd previously followed Sandra Betzina's video but kept finding the jeans zipper hovered to the right. This time these jeans sits as designed - centre.

Zippers at your heels?
Above is a pic of how I placed the zippers at the hems (WIP).

The first spot I put the zippers were right in the middle at the back leg hem. When I checked this in the mirror, the zippers didn't sit above my shoe heels so I moved the zippers 2.5cm across to the side seam and that's where I decided to sew them in.
Here's how I prepped the welt area with the quilt cotton I used for the pocket bag lining.
The pic above shows how the exposed zipper 'bit' is prepared - kinda like a welt pocket.
I had to check twice that the welt was just shy of the zipper length before I sewed the zipper in. 

The zipper pull will tap on my shoe heels as I walk, so you'll know I'm approaching you when I wear these jeans.

I fused the zipper in place before I sewed these in.
Here's how the sewn in zippers looked before I finished the hems.

And I did topstitch these zippers too.

Do you think they're in the right spot?
Jeans and heels.
Farm visit
If you follow me on Instagram, on the weekend Mr V and I were visiting friends and their farm out at Gulgong and we visited Hill End historic site.

Paired with my favourite wool Swanndri vest, new blue knit Vogue top (more on that later), new Jalie jeans and new boots - I was a country gal for the weekend. Yee-haw.

That's my excuse and I'm sticking to it. 
A blooming Golden Wattle tree is a true sign Spring is here.

PS: You do realise there's another pair of jeans in the pipeline?
Baroque black and white stretch denim
But wait, there's more...to come.

Sunday, 31 August 2014

Alexa: winter versions

There's not much of our mild Winter left so I grabbed Alexa (Tessuti pattern) and made a few Winter versions. Making knit tees is what I do when I'm preparing for another big project. Knit sewing is fun and quick to do while I ponder the details of the 'next big thing'.
TNT Tee Contest


My earlier Alexa top versions are here, as a jacket base here, experimenting with prints here and here are the handy dress versions I used while travelling earlier this year. So this is certainly a TNT tee.

Fire: Red lace knit

This is the v-neck version and lined with tricot. I was trying for a pretty Winter version.


This fabric was bought at a fabric store in New Zealand a few years ago. 

Mmmm. Not sure the tricot underlayer works. I'll wear it 'out' one night and see how it goes.

Moving on...


Coat of arms: Ribbon knit

I've made this style before in jaywalk fabric for a few summer polo tops.

This time I've used ribbon fabric bought in Portland a few years ago.

Here's how the neckline looks now. This is definitely a winter top.

Mustard: wool knit hoodie

This time I've added a wrap hood to these two versions using the Avocado hood pattern.
Mustard wool hoodie - dummy view


'On me' view looking chuffed with new Jalie Jeans


Dummy view

'On me' back view showing off my new Jalie jeans with zippers at the hem.
Tangerine: wool knit hoodie


dummy view
'on me' view worn with brown spandex Anita pants pattern from Tessutis ($10 table special)


dummy view
'On me' view worn with Brown spandex Tessuti Anita pants.
Both of these wool knit fabrics for these two tops were bought at My Hung in May. They were $7/m and I've worn these a lot from day 1. These are soft and warm. I can still wear a thermal layer underneath these for when it's really chilly.

Date night: Silver knit 

I tried to draft a collar but the points are a bit wing collar style.
Dummy view of Silver version
'On me' view worn with Chorizo Anita pants from Tessutis


Dummy back view
Back view on me
I bought this silver knit from Tessuti's and this knit is soft against my skin. I tried to create soft gathers at the wrist but you can't really see it.

These are all tunic length because I want to stay warm. 
Ta dah view wearing my grey test Anita ponte pants

I'll show you the Anita ponte pants story soon - my other Winter staple.

Pattern Review has 51 participants in this contest. It finishes today and voting starts next week. Take a look at the entrants and the variety of TNT tees they've used. They're a creative bunch!

Thursday, 28 August 2014

Jackie - It's orange

Jackie is my 'just grab it' jacket for Winter.
My head cold dictated being rugged up in a warm, soft jacket with a collar that hugs me was perfect.
Here's how I've worn Jackie during the week.


Orange really lifts my spirits on a cold and very grey winter's day.

Jackie has also been a fun casual jacket too.

My ta dah picture.

The plant behind me only flowers at the end of Winter. Yay.


See what I mean about a great colour making grey look amazing.

Lena has some prizes up her sleeve for Jackie sewalong-ers. I'll give you those details shortly.

Have you see Janelle's jacket yet? 

I'll add Janelle's photos here once her post goes live. Her work is impeccable. Take a peek on the Flickr group.
When I make Jackie again, I'll get my hem right. 
I got my measurements wrong so I had to redo the lengths are here's the result. I didn't make a test jacket so I'll just have to live with these results.

Hi five if you've started your own Jackie. Or finished it as the case may be?

I'll update our sewalong posts soon.

Go to the flickr group and add your version - whenever you're ready.

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