Sunday, 11 April 2010

New knit dress - M5752

Yesterday was a good day sewing, hosted by Sharon (thanks Sharon).
Our weather is still warm but not humid anymore, and it's autumn. This knit dress is a Palmer/Pletsch classic fit that has some really good reviews on Pattern Review, so I used this blue printed knit bought at Lincraft (50% off) in February ($6).

I didn't try to match the print because this is a toile dress. As you can see below, I used a dark blue fabric as the midriff stay. The midriff gathers requires two layers over the midriff stay, so i only used one layers of gathers.

Now that I'm getting more practice at adjusting patterns, I will keep ploughing through the new patterns I bought last year. The great feaure in this pattern is there is a whole section dedicated to adjusting this pattern. Bonus for anyone who is making this up without any help or reference material.
Lots of the previous reviews mentioned the fact that as some points, you are sewing through more than six layers of fabric. The reason for this is that the front piece doubles onto itself, so the picture above shows where I'm cutting the pattern back, so there's less bulk in the front bodice.
The midriff gathers also requires two layers over the midriff stay, so I only used one layers of gathers.

So this dress has:
- sway back adjustment

- dropped the back skirt hem to cover my rear
- full bust adjustment - c cup
- roll shoulder (2 cm)

- waist adjustment to fit the size 12 for my waist.

I've also made the short sleeve version in a zebra knit now.

Monday, 5 April 2010

B5333 - dress toile

This time I did 3 things when making up Dress C.
  • I adjusted this pattern with the changes from the first toile that I've now got a fresh set of working pattern pieces so the adjusted patterns remain untouched until my body shape changes - again.
  • I followed the pattern instructions so that I got the hang of finishing the neckline properly. If you have this pattern, I added the skirt once the bodice was finished properly ie, do point 9 after point 15.
  • I used an invisible zip and enclosed it with the bodice lining.
The inside of the bodice has no seam finishes because it's lined. The upper bodice was lined with white shirting fabric so I didn't need to match the zebra print from the inside.
Here's how I had to check the bodice fit without my sewing buddies :(

This shows how the shoulders are now sitting on my shoulders without fear of them falling off, and I can still wear 'engineering' underneath. There are two small darts under the bust.
Here's the sort of side view.
So this version has:
- sway back adjustment
- dropped the back skirt hem to cover my rear
- full bust adjustment - c cup
- shoulders moved in by 3cm closer to my neck
- split the bust dart into two smaller darts
- roll shoulder (2 cm)
- waist adjustment to fit the size 12 for my waist
- dropped the upper body piece by 2cm to take the midriff seam line under my bust.
Once I tried on the skirt, I removed 2.5cm from the back seam. It was really big - even on me!

Sunday, 4 April 2010

Fitting B5333

The shiny woven purple fabric is again being used as the toile for this top. This fabric is light weight and has no stretch.

I like the design fit of this top and it can be extended to become a dress. This is a really neat feature that I just love. This picture was my first sneak peek at how the pieces fit together to form the front.

I spent a couple of hours adjusting this pattern while we were away a few weeks ago. So the technical adjustments include:

- sway back adjustment
- dropped the back skirt hem to cover my rear
- full bust adjustment - c cup
- roll shoulder (2 cm)
- waist adjustment to fit the size 12 for my waist
- dropped the upper body piece by 2 cm to take the midriff seam line under my bust.

The photo below shows where the side zip goes. I've used pins at this stage.

These first photos show where my way of checking that the single layer actually fit on me. At this point it does fit me but needed some tweaking at the midriff. I had a bit too much in the front skirt piece so I positioned a couple of pleats to match the bust point dart. The darts were side bust darts were also 2cm too high (doh) and needed to be shorter by 2.5cm.
Here's where I should have stopped. I pinched out some fabric from the front midriff where the bust points are to make the waist fit better - ahh. I now need to do this top again, however, that's why it's a toile.

I didn't follow the pattern neckline finish because I was testing out the fit of this top. I will follow the neckline finish for the next attempt.

This top does feel comfortable especially with the lined upper top and midriff piece. I have now brought the shoulder line closer to my neck because they felt like they were about to slip off my shoulders. I've also lowered the armhole so it eliminates the lines and doesn't look like it's cutting into my arm. As you can see, I don't have Michelle Obama's arms.

The bias binding was used to bring out the purple in the fabric. I've finished this toile and it's going to be a weekend top.

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