Sunday, 24 July 2011

UFO pink - nl 6057 and m5556

Congratulations Cadel Evans. As he said he's been cycling for 20 years and he's finally got the yellow jersey at the Tour de France.

There are some really traditional influences I've seen with tunics. That's why I bought this pattern a while ago. I love the detailing so I attempted make this for to a short person - me.

I began this top earlier this year at a sewing workshop with Angie Zimmerman. The red silk blouse worked well and at the workshop I cut this tunic out and I've just finished it. The buttons have a sparkle to them to match my ballet flats.
Below is the buttonhole detailing that I attempted with the varigated pink thread I also used it on the front tab stitching but it ended up looking like white thread. I bought the thead from St Vinnies near work. I used the matt side of the fabric for the neckline and collar pieces.
I also managed to use the fastturner tool to pull through the button loop closure strips. I used the varigated pink thread on this too and again, it wasn't worth the effort - this time. I will try this thread again in future. What you'll notice is this is view B but there's no hem detailing. The fabric is a stretch woven and I cut the size 10. When I make this again, I'll still use the 10 but I'll add an invisible zip to the side seam and add a few darts so that the style is less relaxed. 
The pants are NL 6057 and I've made the 10 then I ran out of fabric. The front hem has an additional piece added, but not to the back piece. That's bad planning on my part. I used a woven satin for the inside waistband so the pants front needs some wear to sit properly.
I bought this pattern at the Simplicity warehouse (not factory). I love the dress and tunic top style on this pattern and I bought this pattern for $5. I'll make the front tummy bit a bit bigger when I make these pants in a woven on my next attempt. 
I recently downloaded Clinton Kelly's Rx style guide and it's a fun styling app. Yes it's not extensive, but I love the style prompts he offers.

Next in the pipeline is B5087 in two different red winter fabrics.

Wednesday, 20 July 2011

Green spring - B4789

It's still cold here (7 degree C mornings) but I love working with green fabric so here's the story about this dress. This fabric was a remnant piece that I bought from Pitt Trading last year at $2 per metre. I bought some more fabric from Pitt Trading last week but that's a bunch of stories in the making. This fabric has two-way stretch and it has a huge print so I tried to keep the yellow colours away from my face.
The front has a knot just below the bust, and it's easy to make up, but I got it wrong, even after reading the reviews on PR. However, I was able to save fabric and the error is tied up in the knot.
I've shown you the front and back so you can see where the print placement is on this dress. I love the v-neck on the front and back. The hem could come up, so I'll do this on the next version. I've used seams great on the shoulder seams and twin needle on the neckline finish. The fabric is so dark you can't see the black thread I've used throughout the dress.
I'm really loving green. This pattern also has pants but I can't see myself making these up while I'm developing woven pants that fit.

I've since finished a pink UFO that I'll post up soon. I'm just planning what I should make to go with it. Decision time:)

Sunday, 17 July 2011

Matured fabric - Butterick 5247

Many moons ago, I purchased this navy/black boucle fabric from Knitwit. I'm sure this fabric has reached its 10th year (Happy Birthday to the fabric). It may also be the 10th year for the navy/black lace too (more birthday cake). I bought the navy/black lace from another place (Sara Lee factory) that has since closed down its clothing subsidiary.
The pattern is Butterick 5247 and when I last made this up it was a gray/green boucle two-way stretch fabric and then needed to taper in the size. That's the fun of working with stretch fabrics. So I've skimmed this pattern and found that the collar change that I made, leant itself to a v-styled cowl/roll collar. The collar turned out this way because I was playing with the fabric to see what it could do. It reminds me of Lost in Space styling. Then I plonked on the lace across my chest and stitched it on. The seam finishes are nil.
Would you believe there was enough fabric left for a skirt, so I whipped one up. It's a simple piece with elastic in the waistband casing. The front open seam are the selvedges. And the skirt is lined. I was able to find navy tights so I've now got the full navy thing going on. The boucle fabric is not warm and isn't soft against the skin so I've worn a layer underneath the top to keep warm.
I think I'll head back to green fabric again. Navy is my work-based wardrobe.

Saturday, 16 July 2011

Grey knots - B5283

I've made this pattern before in View C but the assymetrical knot just didn't work for me in real life. This is view B. I've been keeping an eye on the knit top challenge that RuthieK has put out there and this is my small attempt to try another knit style.
This fabric has two-way stretch and the main  challenge was the knot. The fit is good. I didn't make any changes because I wasn't sure how the knot would work out.
 
The photo above was for my reference so I could keep track of how where the knot is placed. I sewed the knot onto the front bodice centre after sewing the left and right curves under the bust. I had to wearing it to see where the knot folds should go and then I machine stitched this piece together. The back wasn't adjusted for sway back because I was testing the fit of this view.

Friday, 15 July 2011

Pants #3 - McCall's 2874

The green pants are working well but they were made from stretch woven. This time I attempted navy woven pants so the challenges were definitely about getting the fit right.
This pattern is as plain as they come but it's always about the pants fit for me.
The other challenge was I ran out of fabric so I made do with a voile fabric to finish off the pockets.
The front fit worked as it did on the green pants.
Warning about the pic below. 
The back on the other hand needed lots of help and the pic show you the finished results.
I took the fullness out of the pattern leg and there was still fullness at the back legs. The VPL was embarrasing so I refitted the back pockets for more room. I've finished the pants with belt carriers because I just wanted these pants finished without a glaring butt. I don't like UFOs so I've tried to make this work.
I also made up this purple top McCalls 8777 with a remnant piece from of dry dry knit from my stash.  PS, I won't be pulling on the pockets again...

Thursday, 14 July 2011

Navy wrap - Simplicity 2603

There was a piece of navy netting that had two-way stretch that I was thinking would work as a cardi wrap. I gone a bit navy to replenish my wardrobe staples.This month was also US Independence Day and today is Bastille Day too so maybe these holidays have influenced my choice.
I'm still getting used to not finishing a hems and seams. This is comfortable layer that I can wear in the office during the winter or when the air-con goes haywire. Our office tends to get cold near midday and the air vent is behind me so I do feel the temperature change throughout the day.
This is the long version and I've done no adjustments. I think I bought this fabric for $3 metre last year from the remnant warehouse in alexandria.

Tuesday, 5 July 2011

Pants #2 - McCalls 2874

Happy 4th of July to you all. Eat a hot dog for me please:) Now the days are freezing and I have started working on pants with the aim of making jeans (baby steps). The initial adjustments I make before cutting the fabric are:
  • sway back adjustment
  • lower centre front waist
  • back 'butt' curve (depending on fit)
  • Length - 92 cm or 36 inch outer leg length
I always check the pattern width markings so that I know how much ease I'll need, depending on the fabric. The previous pants were a loose weave and had some drape so that meant the pants would be closer to my body ie less ease. The jumper is McCalls 8777 made with left over merino wool knit.

This fabric is a stretch woven and it has lots of stretch, so again, the pants won't need much ease. I've stuck with green because that's the thread colour on my sewing machine and overlocker. I also figured, I may as well build a couple of green pieces that I can wear for now. I'm not sewing for a future event, just a couple of pieces to wear now that it's cold. I'll be able to take these pieces with me to NZ in September/October when we take a few short trips because of the rugby. Rugby is in DH's blood, so these pieces might come with me. I can always add black when we're at the games.
I've added a fly front panel behind the zipper.
The back was bulky so I've taken more fabric from the back leg, caused by this heavy/medium weight fabric. It's stiff and less ease will help.
I've taken more fullness out of the side seams, particularly the back leg pieces and cut this pant pattern out in a navy woven fabric that isn't as heavy. More news about this later.

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