Wednesday, 14 December 2011

Jalie jeans 2908

This is the coolest pattern. I'm bias. After unpicking the previous woven pair V1204, this pair was much quicker to finish. And they really are low rise.
The fabric is a stretch woven from the Remnant Warehouse ($3 for 3 metres) and the metal zip was 20c from a sale. So really, this pair were definitely low cost and low stress.
By the time I made this pair, I knew that the centre back seam was going to be trimmed back by 3cm because of my sway back. Next pair, I'll raise the centre back yolk by 3cm so the back jeans don't drop when I bend over.
I didn't use the topstitching thread on the zipper opening or down the centre back. Sylvia at work said this made these jeans look more dressy. I did add two coin pockets. Again, I had a machine with top stitching thread, a second machine with sewing thread and the overlocker set up for these jeans.


Next pair will have smaller back pockets and smaller coin pockets. I'll petite them.

Tuesday, 13 December 2011

V1204 - jeans/pants

This has been the 'pants' year as I've worked on a couple of pants patterns so I had better skills to make jeans.
Mushy made this pattern and I loved it because of the straight leg design and the pattern is designed for woven fabrics and not stretch woven fabrics.  These pants are described as "fitted, below waistline pants has front side slant pockets, back patch pockets, fly zipper closing, back yoke, waistband, carriers and topstitch trim". Here's knottygnomeknit's version in denim.

The front pants have been shortened so the jeans finish closer to my hips than right on my waist. I've also raised the pockets because not only were they long, but they were deep.

The inner back seam has been increased by 2 cm and the curve is also deeper. The waist has also been lowered for the next pair of jeans. Below is my version of making the leg width less full. I was going for a more straighter leg version.



Now that I've finished these pants, I think I've effectively sewn this pair, at least twice. At least the amount of unpicked thread on my floor indicated these needed lots of tweaking. I'm not normally this particular but I really wanted these pants to look good and not home made.
When I wore these for a day, I realised that I needed to resew the belt loops onto the waist band. They were way too long at 9.5cm long. I cut them back to 7.5 cm.
I also saw how long the pocket bag showed under the pants so they are now 6cm deep as opposed to 15 cm deep.
I had lots of fun adding the rivets and jeans button. Using a hammer is definitely my thing.

I've also added more room for my thighs so hopefully the bagging around my butt will disappear (he he). The next pair will be green and should sit closer to my hips. I do prefer low rise jeans.

The top is Kwik Sew 3378. This top has recently been adjusted. I've taken 4cm out from the centre back seam.

Sharon suggested using one machine for top stitching, a second machine for normal sewing and the overlocker. So that's what I did and I was able to progress through the pattern instructions much easier, without needing to thread and rethread the sewing machine with each step.

While writing up this review I found an blog about how RTW jeans either emphasis the butt as either a one mound or two mounds. I definitely have a two mound butt.

Friday, 2 December 2011

More summer 'fits'

 This RTW green dress was too big at the armhole and the bodice was too wide. The armhole is now 2 cm lower at the shoulder seams. I've also taken out width from the two back seams (2.5cm each) to bring in the bodice. This took 2 1/2 hours to do. There was no unpicking involved. 
 This RTW dress has been taken in at the centre back seam by 5cm. The hem has come up by 4 inches. I've also tucked in the front neckline so that it doesn't gap. This took 2 1/2 hours to do.


This pink number is one that I made as a wearable toile. The fabric was a gift and I've got stacks of it. This dress is not lined.

I've taken 3cm from the side seams and the tricky part was resewing the armhole edging.  This took 2 1/2 hours to do.




This burnt orange dress took 2 hours to fix. Mostly because I took the back zipper out, then took out an inch from the centre back seam, overlocked the seams and reinserted the back zipper. I've taken out 2 inches.
I made this dress at least 5 years ago and I have a jacket made out of the same fabric. This dress is not lined but the jacket is.

In total, this alteration took 2 hours to do.
This dress took 2 hours to fix. I cut off the sleeves, dropped the shoulder seams by 2cm, turned in the sleeve edges and took the side seams in by 1 inch. 
Yesterday I didn't like the look of this dress around the waist so I took off the front waist band. So in total this dress has taken 2 1/2 hours to fix. This weekend I'll take out some of the fullness out of the blue cherry dress too.

This is the quilt fabric that I've used a lot. I made this dress a couple of years ago and it's not lined but has bias binding on the neckline and armholes. I've taken this in at the side seams. The seams are overlocked.

This alteration took 1 1/2 hours to do.

I won't bore you with any further alterations. What I have learnt by altering my summer dresses is the hardest part was deciding if the dress was worth keeping and then what area needs to be adjusted. Once I'd done this planning part, the rest was doable. I'm not saying it wasn't stressful, but it was worth the work.

I'm working on Vogue 1204 pants so I'll really ready to make these pants from scratch now.

And one day, I'll learn how to layout these pages better...

Thursday, 1 December 2011

Fit

These two dresses have been favourites however they did need some rework. Unpicking is not a favourite task of any sewer but I needed to restyle these dresses because I still love the fabric but the fit was really really bad.
 

This black and white number did have sleeves and a mock from belt.  The problem was the size because overwhelming. The fabric is a heavy raw silk and it's lined with cotton fabric. I had worn it to work for two summers and our summer is here and I still consider it a staple. I've pinned the original sleeves and mock belt to the dress so you can see the style. Without the sleeves and belt, it looks more streamlined.
Bulky before
Less bulk
This blue print sun-dress was also a favourite with it's long hem so I could wear flat sandals with it. Again it's too heavy looking ie too long and too wide. I keep forgetting I'm short. But I love the shirt style and fabric print. My parents come from a cherry growing area so any cherry print is special to me.

I unpicked the skirt from the top but I left the front pleats and front button tab attached to the blouse. The front still had three pleats at the front, which I'm reconsidering. Do I leave them in or take them out? I've also cut 5" off the hem so that it's about knee length. So these are still dresses, just better balanced for my frame.

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