Sunday, 15 January 2012

Minoru jacket progress

On Saturday 4 of us were at Alexandria worked on our Minoru jackets. All 4 of us are various shapes and sizes. What we found through discussions with Nicole who works at Alexandria, the raglan sleeve is too high for this jacket. So the trial below shows the after effect with 2 inches added across the jacket.
The fabric lines show how the patterns sit. The sleeve is pulling to the front. The split sleeve pattern shows you why.
Alison compared the jacket sleeves to a Sandra Betzina and it was obvious that the sleeves are too high and not wide enough for all four of us. Seriously. It was a real learning for us.
The other issue I realised is the sleeve is gathered to a cuff piece so I can live with this sleeve as long as I square off the elbow to wrist pattern lines. Tasia (Sewaholic) recommended moving the cuff sleeve gathers to the back of the sleeve to alleviate the sleeve line.
I have another trial in the works.

8 comments:

Annec said...

Hi M
Looks/feels much better at shoulders with the two inches added, eh?. Further to the so-helpful Nicole's suggestions, I also added an inch to the collar center which further relaxed the yoke to a more comfortable fit.

Curious to know more about your plans re cuff/sleeve fix...

PS...love the "have sewing machine, will travel" mode

Doobee said...

Just discovered you site - love what you are doing with the Minoru Jacket. It certainly is a great jacket - the sewalong is brilliant. Off to have a peek around your blog...

Sharon said...

I missed the split sleeve, what was that about? Looking a lot better and will be interested to see your next version.

Carolyn said...

Hmmm, sounds like a very interesting and informative learning session, although I couldn't really tell what you meant about the problems with the raglan from the pictures... are the sleeve tops too narrow?
I'm sure the care you are taking with fitting this pattern correctly will pay off and give you a beautiful garment

Mary said...

Carolyn gave me this link and wow, what timing. I have a muslin for this jacket partially sewn together and it does NOT fit. I set it aside thinking I needed to go up a size through the bust but perhaps it is as you describe here.

Thank you-I'm going to look around your lovely blog here before bed :-)

velosewer said...

Hi Anne.
The jacket is a better fit with the extra 2 inches. I did the same with the collar - added 2 inches on the fold.
Sharon, I split the sleeve from the elbow to the wrist to see what effect it would have on the sleeve line.
Mary, if you have the patience, try the adjustments on a test version. It's a 'no tears' formula.

MushyWear said...

I really like the looks of this jacket pattern. Sounds like you are doing a good job with figuring out the fit adjustments. I am anxious to see your finished version.

Bri said...

Great fabric you've chosen for this jacket, despite the issues you're having I'm sure this is going to be lovely

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