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Wednesday, 22 February 2012

Fitting fatigue - Minoru jacket

There's no way I'll let this jacket beat me. We spent the weekend with Angie's getting the fit sorted. Those sleeve lines don't happen with a standard fitted sleeve but because there isn't the same sleeve head room built into a raglan sleeve, a couple of us had to build in the sleeve head room that was missing. Then I was able to take the 2" out of the collar that I had added previously. Phew. Collars are not the sort of adjustment I'm comfortable making so returning the collar to its original length was a relief. As you can also see below, this raglan pattern is all in one. There isn't a separate front and back raglan sleeve pattern piece so the changes in the Big Red book Fitting and Pattern Alteration: A Multi-Method Approach to the Art of Style Selection, Fitting, and Alteration (2nd Edition) didn't help.
So the sleeve has been cut and spread 2"/5cm to add in the additional sleeve head room. I've also readjusted the length so it's only 3/4" longer at the top of the arm. Now that I've had a fitting expert check the raglan twist (Angie), the solution was to add more space at the shoulder head. So we cut and spread the pattern open and added at least 2"/5cm at the shoulder head and graduated it back to the original size at the wrist.
 

The front and back pieces have been adjusted based on the increased sleeve head length (3/4") and all pieces have been shortened to suit my body length (or lack of length).
To come...the trial garment is mushroom colour in a stretch woven shower proof fabric. The lining is a polyester chiffon (lots of movement) that I bought for nix and there's plenty more of it in the stash. The zippers were bought at Ferriers in Fullarton, Adelaide. I'm building in zippered pockets on the front with a single welt and zippered pockets inside the jacket, replacing the velcro opening. I know, who else would be silly enough to ask for more hoops to jump through with this jacket?
February 2013 edit: If you add the wrist band with elastic, there won't be a twisting on the sleeve. The gathers at the top of the sleeve and at the wrist will overcome this fitting issue.

6 comments:

Mary said...

I just put up my PR review of my Minoru. I'll be interested to see how yours looks. You are so far ahead of my in fitting knowledge...I just picked my size, adjusted for petite, and sewed it up. Looking forward to your pictures!

Sharon said...

Glad you are tackling this one as well.

You have got me a bit confused with the "front and back pieces have been adjusted based on the increased sleeve head length". I didn't do any adjustments to my back and front pattern pieces and my sleeve adjustments looks like yours from the armhole up.

I was thinking of adding pockets but not sure what to do with the ripstop, any ideas?

velosewer said...

Hi Sharon, Angie mentioned that your sleeve pieces didn't have the same increased sleeve length that my piece had.
Since I did a welt pocket on DH's shirt, I'll be doing the same for the outside pockets and add a zipper. Sort of using a similar technique to collare on View A. I'll blog this 'technique' for you.

Lena Merrin said...

But imagine all the skills you are getting in the process! :)

MushyWear said...

I admire all the work you are doing to get a good fit on this jacket. I am looking forward to seeing it all made up.

Carolyn said...

I;m sure your jacket is going to be just wonderful. The fitting adjustments sound incredibly complex, but I'm sure all the extra work will pay off with a beautifully fitting jacket. I'm looking forward to seeing it!

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