Tuesday, 28 February 2012

Pockets, welts, zips

After admiring a few finished Minoru jackets (Biblioblog), there were comments the jacket might benefit from having external pockets (Rocketsews) on the front. Hidden zippered welt pockets were an idea Alison had so that's what I've done on this trial jacket. As a fair weather cyclist, zippered pockets are a useful feature. I've done inseam pockets before and they are easy to do by don't hold the garment shape that well. 
The jacket now has 6 zippers in it. Yep. 1 zipper for the hood (View A), 1 on front closure, 2 zippers for the internal pockets and 2 zippers for the external pockets. Yes Lena, I've learnt lots and I  really needed to be 'awake' when I attempted this without the full instructions. I did have welt pocket instructions but not with a zipper included. The instructions for inserting a zipper in the collar were a good practice before attempting the external zipper welt pockets.
The pic above is the wrong side view of the inside pocket WIP.

Now the fabric seems shower proof and it has some stretch which becomes annoying attempting to sew a clean line. So I've used armoweft to reinforce the pocket opening and seam tape to reinforce the stitching lines on the pocket opening. There were still slight puckers.

On the left is the finished inside zip pocket.

Below are the initial stitching marks for the welt pocket and reinforcing on the wrong side; welt placement; pocket bag placement and the final result.

The fiddliest part was sewing the zip on before you sew up the pocket bag. 

Get the basic welt pocket instructions before you attempt this at home.

Below is welt placement along the welt pocket stitching guide.

Below you can see the two pocket bag pieces. One pocket bag piece is a cotton woven and the other pocket bag piece is the fashion fabric.

Above is the zipper placement, once you've cut open the pocket line and pulled in the pocket bag pieces.
So the end result is a welt pocket with a hidden zip.  Yep, I've sewn in 6 zips. What was I thinking.
Ta dah.


Mary said...

ohhhh, I like these. Your jacket is going to be perfect.

Sharon said...

Very impressive, and with all the Minorus around I can't make up my mind which pockets to add. Looking forward to seeing it on Saturday.

Mary said...

I've come back to your blog to study the welt pocket in more detail. Your jacket is so wonderful-I love the technical details you have added, and the fabric used. Thanks so much for the mention of my blog, and the link to Rocketsews. I am already planning how to incorporate all these cool ideas in Minoru #2.

velosewer said...

Hi Mary. You're welcome. I kinda figured that if I can help someone else with the techo stuff, I will. I'll keep an eye out for your second jacket. Mine #2 is still in the pipeline.


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