Friday, 30 November 2012

Size matters

We used Connie Crawford's Butterick 5538 pattern at a bust cup adjustment workshop. Our tutor Marea Drayton, had lots of patterns to look at for fitting ideas, and she gave use a sheet to record our measurements and calculate the adjustments we needed for the pattern.

Marea had lots of patience, she was great at keeping up with the less demanding sewers, but most importantly Marea was genuinely interested in helping us achieve a good fit.
She used Fit for real people used because she's Palmer Pletsch trained. Later I was told Marea used Connie Crawford's fitting techniques. I missed out on Connie's visit to Sydney last year but I have her books and I saw her at Sew Expo in 2011. Connie's amazing and a straight forward speaker with industry experience. Talk about a wealth of sewing industry knowledge! Connie is a real sewing treasure.

Anyway the pics below show the steps Marea took to increase the bust width on a princess seam. This pattern below had the width added by adding a vertical line that pivots from the shoulder seam. What you see below is Marea closing the side dart and adding room at the bust point. 
The side dart below is being taped closed.
Below you'll see the the front side is longer that the centre front so the centre front is then dropped to match the side front hem.
I did this workshop because I do need to know how to make this adjustment for anyone who is C cup and above like Mum or SIL or my first dear niece.
Pondering my next sewing project... You can see I need to get out into the sun eventhough summer is here.

Sway back XD
I'm wearing the mustard pants Vogue 1204 I made earlier this year. I also made these in festive green and a red test pair.
The back now fits better.
We were also asked to bring Frixion pens.  I had no idea what these pens were for but I bought a couple anyway. They're erasable pens so I suppose you can scribble out your markings and rewrite over your paper or fabric. I'll buy anything that gives me the best outcome. Have you used these pens before? Mine pens are still in the pack!

Here's what's on the net about these pens...
The ink laid down by the Frixion rollerball disappears under friction! The end of the pen has a hard plastic eraser, which when rubbed over the writing causes the colour to disappear from the ink. You can then write over it again with the same pen. How does it work? It's a type of thermo-reactive ink. The heat generated by the friction causes the ink to become translucent (at 65°C fact-hounds!). Stick it in the freezer (-20°C) and your scribblings will re-appear - albeit slightly faded.

7 comments:

BeaJay said...

Your top looks like it is fitting well. Be nice to see the finished garment. I have the frixion pens and you can also use the iron on the markings on your fabric to erase them. Magic.

Summer Flies said...

That's a good class to take... I need to know this but so far haven't tried. I have used those pens for uni but never thought to use them on fabric.. thanks for the tip!

theperfectnose said...

Wow you do so much social sewing. I wish we lived closer to each other so we could meet up and geek out XD I've been feeling for a while now that it's time take my sewing to the next level-just feels like I've got too much else on to actually do it XD

RebeccaHoward said...

I use the frixion pens for marking darts etc straight onto my fabric after cutting out. I have them in light and dark colours. They work really well. That is they last long enough for you to sew up the garment and then the marks disappear when you iron them. However now you have posted that bit from the net I am scared when I pull my sewing out of the freezer (don't we all store our clothes there) it will have marks all over it. Lucky I live in Sydney.

Sharon said...

That is an interesting way to add extra on the princess line and your blouse is looking pretty good.

Carolyn said...

Those pens sound so useful :)
I have passed on to you the One Lovely Blog award, if you would like the button it is here
http://handmadebycarolyn.blogspot.com.au/2012/12/spammy-spam-spam-spam.html

Carolyn said...

Thanks so much for your kind comment on my drape drape dress, and in answer to your question:
drape drape is just like a regular Japanese pattern book in that it has all the patterns printed on big sheets inside the book, and you trace them off a la Burdastyle. Pattern Magic is kinda different from all the others in that respect: in the case of all three PM books you have to draft your own patterns after creating your own custom fit sloper. I consider PM to be a much bigger challenge than drape drape. :)

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