Wednesday, 25 January 2012

Mustard legs - V1204

At the January Alexandria session, Renata was musing about making a pair of lemon yellow jeans. So while looking along the drill bolts I found mustard yellow drill. Score. This is one of my colours. While I've been working away from home, at night I've been able to get in a couple of hours sewing. No cooking or cleaning, until I get home.
This is my third version - red and green were recently made. This version has a 'stay' at the front and I've widened the top of the back leg. I just couldn't work out the pockets pieces, so I pinned the pocket pieces together and extended them to the zipper seam. It's a drill cotton so it won't stretch.
The contrast thread was originally going to be grey but then I wanted a less obvious pocket design, so I over sewed it with mustard coloured thread. The pocket curves are traced off using the base on the iron water jug. There wasn't anything else I could decide upon while working in a one bed room apartment.

Last Saturday, my sewing buddies pointed out there was an unsightly curve on the centre back seam. So it's now laying dead flat as I unpicked the centre back seams, raised the base and then resewed the seams and flat edges.
I have kept the grey thread on the belt carriers and coin pockets.
Because the fabric is pure cotton, it crushes, hence the creases. The fabric does breath well when you travel. The jeans do feel a bit loose when I sit.
I'm now working on another jeans pattern - Vogue jeans - in apple green denim. I'm using this mustard pants to get the adjustments right. This is my 'oh my got it's humid' weekend look :)

Sunday, 15 January 2012

Minoru jacket progress

Here's a shot of my Minoru jacket trail. The raglan sleeve is too high for this jacket and the pic below shows the after effect with 2 inches added across the jacket and sleeve.
The fabric lines show how the patterns sit. The sleeve is pulling to the front. The split sleeve pattern shows you why. The sleeve is not wide enough to sit flat.
The other issue I realised is the sleeve is gathered to a cuff piece and in reality the cuff gathers mean if the sleeve isn't sitting quiet right, the gathers are the cuff will negate any drag lines. Tasia (Sewaholic) recommended moving the cuff sleeve gathers to the back of the sleeve to alleviate the sleeve line.

Jalie sweetheart top/dress

While waiting for my Sewaholic Minoru pattern to arrive, I decided to do a Jalie.

The test top used the soft white knit remnant I've used before and the key finding here confirmed where the top/dress length should be and the hip width and hip placement. I'm a bit higher on the right hip and do still need to accomodate for my round behind. I've used size U. Swimwear elastic didn't work so I've used 2mm width elastic on the bodice.
So, the real garment is this dress. I've found that this fabric is much looser than the white test version and the bodice was a lower fit. I've since raised the side bodice neckline up with front neckline so I don't have anything peeking out.
This fabric has a huge print on it and it was the last on the roll so I've positioned the orchid on my waist. The interesting aspect of this print was placing each piece so that the colours flowed. There was no way I would have the fabric or smarts to get each print piece in the right spot but I might still play with the fit when I get home.
The overall time it took to make this version was 4 hours. I'm working away from home so I have a really great room that I've set up with my little sewing machine.
Here's how I packed the machine in my carry on bag. Big bubble wrap and some packing foam that DH acquired for the bikes. I stored the bag in the overhead locker and no one made any comments because it didn't draw people's attention to 'the little lady with a carry on bag and laptop bag'. He he. It's nice to be invisible sometimes.
Thank you to DH for bringing the laptop this weekend so I can put up this post.

Monday, 2 January 2012

B5497 - Trial

This top was planned to be complete for Christmas but wasn't. This week I made it up quickly at Sharon's place without elastic due to bad planning on my part. As you can see, View A is V-neckline for the front view and back view.


 I don't normally wear dolman sleeves but I thought that short dolman sleeves might work. The elastic is used on the sleeve head seams to keep the gathers in place. This pattern also uses elastic on the mid bodice seam below the bust, using the seam allowance as the elastic casing. I used size 6 top and size 12 bodice but I'll used size 10 bodice next time.
 
The bodice length works (minus 10cm). This top really needs the elastic on the sleeves because the sleeves fall to my elbows and the sleeves should end just off the shoulders. Since finishing this top, I've taken 2cm out of the front and back V-neckline. I also shortened the back tie piece by 2cm. 



The next version has these adjustments and the bodice is now dress length. This white fabric was a Pitt Trading remnant so this top has cost me $1 and 4 hours to make. I did use the Coverpro for the hem finishes so I'm using this top as Coverpro practice as well. When I wore this top version, the neckline and sleeves kept moving around so I was determined to make this style work. 
This version was made on New Years Eve and worn on New Years day at the movies. We saw Tower Heist and it was fun to watch (not Gold Class). We saw Bill Cunningham earlier in the week. The top fits perfectly and doesn't move. It now has elastic in the shoulders and around the bodice. These pics were taken by DH. The fabric was a clearance piece from Spotlight so this dress might have cost $7 in total and took 5 hours to make, including cutting out and getting the print placement right. Using the Coverpro on the hemline was brilliant. I always split the hem stitching climbing into cars. This time, I didn't split hem stitching climbing into the 4wd.

Sunday, 1 January 2012

V1204 - Green festive season

All week I had been toying with how to add a coin pocket to these pants. And I was trying to find the energy to have them ready to wear on Christmas Day. Well both issues were resolved so it's definitely Happy New Year to everyone. Thank you 'sewing gods'.
The fabric was from the fabric shop that moved away from Burwood earlier this year. This is a green cotton drill and I am loving the coloured jeans that are out this season. I've still got plenty of this fabric for another project. And I'm still building green into my wardrobe - slowly.
 
This version has smaller front pockets than the first version and I've used different pocket stitching. The topstitching is a combination of normal thread and embroidery thread. You can see the top stitching but it's not bulky. The pockets are really shallow now and the coin pockets look a bit 'burda' to me.


I did the fly front stitching and I fudged the waistband to match. This version has a lower waist than the first red version and I did build in more room for my thighs. I had removed 2 cm from the centre back from the pattern but I still needed to take another 2 cm from the actual centre back. Either the fabric stretches or I just can't get the cut right on the centre back yolk

These pants took me less time to make - because there wasn't so much unpicking as the first version. 6 hours in total. I'm eagerly waiting for more rivets to arrive in the mail because I'm now running out of these nickel rivets that I bought in NZ in October. I wasn't able to find any in Sydney.
There are lots of creases at the front and behind the knee because I wore these at an all-day sewing session with my sewing buddies and then headed out with DH for plenty of post-Christmas socialising.

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