Friday, 29 June 2012

Pleather jacket

This jacket had to be completed this week because I'll be making wedding gear for Mum.


So it all started with these gloves.
 Then I road tested this jacket in wool and snake embossed leather.
And now I have the matching pleather jacket for the gloves.
There's a lot of topstitching because the pleather kept billowing out, which is ok if that's the look you want.


This version has the sway back adjustment and it definitely sits much smoother on the back.
The hem and neck edges have 1 row of top stitching.
I just had to add a metal separating zipper from zipperstop.com. The lining was from my stash. Ironing pleather is not an option so I'll need to hang this jacket on the dress form to get the crease lines out of the bodice.
The amazing thing was I didn't mean to finish this in a week. The call to make Mum some wedding clothing came through the week. Each time I sewed up a seam I kept saying 'just sew this seam and do a bit more tomorrow'. But my curiousity about how pleather sews up made me keep doing 'just one more step'. It also helped that we had a raft of home made leftovers in the fridge so I didn't have to make dinner from scratch each night. I think DH kept his approving nods consistent each I time I showed him the jacket's construction. He deserves a beer.

Weekend version

This is the final lined trousers for winter. This is a weekend version and I bought this fabric from Pitt Trading to play with plaid. Luckily this fabric is over painted (distressed) so these trousers are more for weekend wear.




I love the Jalie scarf collar top.
The fabric is extremely stiff so I've cut more out of the centre back seam and made the belt loops 2.5 cm longer than the pervious belt loops. Here are the work versions.
Here's a close up shot of the fabric. It's a plaid/houndstooth woven with over painting to look distressed.

Thursday, 28 June 2012

Winter scarf

This is my first knitted scarf using Elicia yarn and will go to my littlest niece for general wear or for dress ups.
I did a knitting workshop earlier this year and the Summer Hill Sewing Emporium so that's it from me about knitting.

Tuesday, 26 June 2012

ASG industry day

Industry day at the Simplicity warehouse is something I do look forward to each year. The speakers can be great most of the time and the special deals we get from Simplicity are something I love and this year was no exception. Patterns for $5 is the best deal we get locally. That's for Burda, New Look and Simplicity patterns.
John Byrnes did a great update about what's happening at Simplicity. There were about 150 of us in their warehouse but John had something there for everyone to delve through.
The Guild were selling fabrics donated from a generous fabric store that moved from Leichhardt recently. My stash has grown thanks to Toni's pursuasion.
Sally Souter from styyleedit.com.au discussed colour and style and the audience were ready to have their colours, styles and wardrobes attended to as soon as she finished.
Rosemary from Chic Fabrique brought some of her fabrics bolts for sale and I bought some leather remnants *rolled eyes icon*.
The ASG travel tours coming up in New York and Turkey next year sounded tempting.
I didn't stay for Rhonda Braybrook's session on Taking your basic T outside the square. If her leather workshop on the Sunday went beyond sewing leather scraps into patchwork bags, I would have joined the workshop. On Sunday I ended up achieving 3,000 cycling training kms instead. I achieved 2,000 cycling training kms in January.
Alison gave me a quick Bento lesson on my iPhone, when my attention deficit disorder kicked in. My pattern template is ready to use. Now to develop a fabric template. Then I'll begin the long road to being organised. Should I do develop a notion template as well?
There were a couple of PR people who attended and because their avatar isn't their photo, I wasn't able to recognise them to say 'hi'. It was only after chatting on the message board on Sunday that I realised that I missed out on meeting them.
In our sewing group of over 12, three of us wore our favourite green winter gear. There was no planning involved.
The next ASG industry day was scheduled for Saturday 13th October 2012 but it got the flick.

Thursday, 21 June 2012

Lovin' lined trousers - Burda 7746

So now I have a cotton navy trousers that are lined and will be better for general office wear. The fabric is from Pitt Trading and I've used sunsilky lining. Thanks to Sheila ctk for the hook and eye kits I've used on these trousers. I won these through a giveway she ran earlier this year. I still have fabric courtesy of Sheila ctk that I need to make up - soon.


I made this top (Kwik Sew 2694) earlier this year.

After wearing these to work, I've now added belt loops so these trousers sit better on me.

I do enjoy the 1960's Batman camera angle.
The pockets on the first pair stretched so I've interfaced the pocket edges and they sit very nicely now. Here's the interfacing I've used on the scratchy woollen pair that I'm making up since finishing the navy pair. I tend to make things twice so I know I didn't fluke the first version. And I  embed the construction steps in my head.
I didn't have enough fabric for the pocket bag pieces so I've placed a piece of the woollen fabric on the piece that will show. The rest of the pocket bag pieces are made from sunsilky lining.
This dark flecky woollen pair is made from a Cue remnant that I bought from Pitt Trading last year. The weather reports were warning about the coming cold chill so I decided these trousers needed to be worn now.
The woollen pair are scratchy and the Sunsilky lining is the perfect solution. 
I made this top earlier last year and because it's a bit wide, I've worn a belt to keep it sitting right.

 It was a no-brainer to add belt loops after finishing the navy trousers.
I'll adjust the back hem so they don't bag at the back. I have one more pair in the pipeline.
Here's another close up shot of the woollen fabric.

Thursday, 14 June 2012

Not so quiet downunder

Not much happens in our sleepy suburb except today the streets are blocked off to film the next Underbelly series. Thankfully the rain has eased off and it's a gorgeous winter day.
The camera guy on the bottom left turned around and filmed my taking this shot, possibly to embarrass me. It didn't work.
So here is a composite of the actors.
Underbelly: Badness stars Jonathan LaPaglia as underworld figure Anthony Perish. He's the one in denim.

Wednesday, 13 June 2012

Leather trim - McCalls 6292

This really is a test jacket. Truely. When I test a pattern:
- there's no real plan
- I make my basic pattern adjustments (roll shoulder, sleeve and bodice length)
- any notions come from my stash


    Throughout the process I constantly think "What if..."
So really, I let go of any preconceived ideas and I make the garment out of sequence.
What I mean is for this jacket, I made up the lining and checked the shoulder fit before I cut out the fashion fabric. The shoulders came out too long so I cut them back on the fashion fabric and I've since adjusted the pattern. The neckline also climbed up my short little neck, so I dropped this by 1cm.
As you know, I've been trying to pick up any skills to work with leather. I had no intention of piping this jacket in snake embossed lamb leather but the scraps that I had bought from the Remnant Warehouse have been sitting in my sewing bag for 3 months saying "so what are we here for?" The cost of these leather scraps came to a whole $10.
This medium wool fabric was gifted to me by a sewing buddy so this jacket fabric hasn't cost me much at all and I was happy to cut into it and test out this jacket. I still have plenty for a coat, skirt or pants. This fabric is well behaved.
The wonderful 3kids was the only PR reviewer of this jacket so iher review made it really clear this jacket would finish above/at my waist. Her blog had lots more detail and photos of her finished jacket. Her jacket is wonderful both on the inside and out.
This is my 'I think I need a coffee' look.
The ripple on my right shoulder is because the lining is a bit short - like me.
So now I'm just about ready to make up my pleather red version, once the zipper arrives from Zipperstop. I've used a rich red sunsilky lining to contrast the green wool on this toile.
In the meantime, I've cut out navy work pants that will be lined - Burda 7746. This will be my first lined pants. The first version in a purple linen have worked out well.
 If I get 2 pairs made up by the end of this month, I should be toasty warm this winter.

Tuesday, 5 June 2012

Gloves - Butterick 5695

These gloves were a test and now I like them. And the pattern doesn't call for lining but the next pair will be lined, especially if I use leather.


This shows the handstitching on the fingers. I couldn't do this by machine. I've used a knit scrap to test the pattern size and sewing steps.
Here's the right side palm view. 
Here's the right side back view. 
You can see the pleather has a soft knit wrong side. The pattern piece shows how I took 1cm off the finger length. 
The reason I went back to this project is because Theperfectnose from blogging heaven, sent me an email with this glove sewing article and I thought I should strike while the iron was hot. The article is easy to follow and much better than the pattern instructions. Well, I also went to the Alexandria ASG meeting on Saturday and I deliberately left my machine at home so I had no other option but to handstitch - and chat over a cuppa, of course.  I did learn to handstitch at the Leatherworkers Guild last month.
These wonderclips were great to prevent extra puncture marks on the pleather but I did need to stitch carefully so I didn't wreak them. Thanks to Sharon for getting me to buy these last month when she had a special offer. These clips were a timely purchase. The inside fabric was great for writing on.
Here's how I used them on the machine and how I used the zipper foot for the 3mm seam allowances. 3mm! I did check the fit of the first finger I hand sewed and realised the finger length was a bit short so I clipped each by 1cm. I think my knit fabric stretched while I sewed so the pattern pieces have been altered back to their original lengths.
Here's how they finished up yesterday.


I did a bit more handstitching on the fatter fingers and added a 1" cuff with elastic and I was able to machine sew this cuff on using the zipper foot again. Brilliant.
Thank you so much theperfectnose. You gave me the kick-start and article I needed.

Now to make the matching jacket...McCalls 6292 but a bit longer than finishing at the waist.
I've started on the toile so that I can get the jacket length and construction right.

LinkWithin

Related Posts Plugin for WordPress, Blogger...

disqus

You might also be interested in...

Related Posts Plugin for WordPress, Blogger...

Minerva Crafts UK