Thursday, 12 December 2013

Staying in shape

No matter what fabric you use, you can make your jacket last longer and keep its shape by interfacing it.
I'm working on Vogue 8931 and my fabric breathes well and is the colour I want but just a bit light-weight to stand the test of time.
Interfacing is normally used on collar, cuffs and waistbands but over time, I've seen how jackets can keep their shape when every piece is fully interfaced. I've fully fused 2 jackets made of double knit and they still hold their shape even after the fabric starts to pill.

This cotton linen-look fabric from Minerva Crafts is soft and great for summer. It's dress weight. Normally you wouldn't use the same fabric for a jacket, but I have.
Above is the 'before' fabric. It looks a bit wrinkled right so I'll steam it before I interface it.

I interface each piece separately but there's no reason why you couldn't interface the fabric before you cut out each piece - if you've planned it ahead of time.
See how the nicely steam pressed piece looks. Smooth...
Above is this piece is ready to steam press with a layer of interfacing. The interfacing you choose is your choice.
Above I cover these two pieces with a moist pressing cloth.
See the bubbles? This piece needs more pressing time.

Above is how the inside of the jacket looks once each piece has been fused and sewn together.
See how smooth these pieces are to work with? From here on in, these pieces stay smooth and make my sewing life a bit easier.
I always keep a bit of whisperweft, sheerweft, armoweft and textureweft in my stash.
This jacket will also resist creasing when I take it to work or wear it in the car.

Don't just look at what I've done, go to some real references.
Singer Tailoring - 1988,
Jackets for real people by Alto, Neall and Palmer - 2006,
New Simplicity Sewing Book - 1979
Easy, Easier, Easiest Tailoring by Palmer and Pletsch - 1977

3 comments:

Lori said...

You are so right, it is amazing how interfacing makes such a difference.

Accordion3 said...

I interface all the jacket pieces too. I like my jackets to keep their shape. And yes, I always have it in the stash!

I haven't tried interfacing knit fabrics yet. What do you use for them?

Diana said...

I completely agree Maria. Interfacing makes all the difference. My favorite is Fusiknit which I use for just about everything I interface.

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