Thursday, 20 February 2014

Work or weekend?

What started out as weekend cargo pants are now work wear. How did that happen?

Was it the fabric?

This fabric was an unloved stash from a local sewer. Even I thought this fabric would be an 'ok' pattern testing fabric. 
It's a bit scratchy and flimsy.
It's a non-colour on both sides so I used the dark side.
Front view with a me-made top.

Was it the pattern?

This is clearly a cargo pattern. Cargoes are usually a forgiving style (weekend worthy) and I made the 4 grading it to 6 at the hips. Peggy of Silhouette Patterns uses this block for her jeans pattern.
Was it the notions?
Probably. I've used stash buttons and zipper in the 'beige-est' of beige. 


How about the finishings?
I did use triple thread coverstitching in a few places but not a lot. The fly front stitching uses a nothing colour so it's not obvious. See the lining.

I cut the outer leg pockets to a smaller size so that weren't as big as designed. These pockets are designed to sit flat and they do.


About the pattern
This pattern is multisized and comes in 4 - 18 and 14W - 28W. 
It took me over an hour to cut out all the pieces. That prep time included pattern adjustments for length and depth. The techie stuff is below.

Peggy suggests making these cargoes in 3 steps. 
1. Cut out the pieces. 
2. Make up the front and back legs. 
3. Sew the pants together with the outside pockets and tabs.

I took an hour to make the back welt pockets and sew in the zipper.

The outer pockets were another sit and concentrate session. 
So I've made these cargoes in 5 steps to focus on these features.

I like how these cargoes are fitted at the waist and hips and not saggy, baggy cargoes, so they are work appropriate.



The technical stuff:
My adjustments basic trouser adjustments:
1. Deepened the back crotch curve 
2. Sway back curve.
3. Shortened the leg length (#shortgirl)
4. Shortened the pocket bag (#shortgirl)
5. Added room for my thighs on the front and back leg (Cylindrical lower torso).
On this top, the lines at the centre back seam matched :)
My 'go to' pattern fitting book is Fitting and pattern alteration or what we refer to as 'the big red book'. Not much tweaking needed 

Thanks to The Monthly Stitch for getting me to focus on Smarty pants this month.
Thanks for stopping by:)

17 comments:

BeaJay said...

Work appropriate? They are bloody beautiful. Fantastic job - they look so polished. Very nice indeed. I certainly wouldn't be wearing them on the weekend unless I had somewhere very special to go.

Accordion3 said...

Wot BeaJay sez!

As always - stunning work.

Kristy said...

These are supremely flattering on you Maria - I've always thought cargo pants look bulky and baggy but I think slimming the leg and using a more refined fabric has made your look very streamlined

Linda said...

Your pants look great! You do an excellent job of fitting pants; I am envious.

Andrea said...

Sharp looking pants, Maria. I like the seams running down the back of the pants, as well as the rear welt pockets. Smart to downsize the side leg pockets for your petite size. Very smart outfit!

Dorothy DotDot said...

They were a lot of work, but they look great!

Lori said...

I think those pants are fantastic wear them all the time!

Cherrypix said...

The details let these cargos carry off way more than just weekend duty! They are very flattering! Like Kristy, I tend to think of cargos as comfy but not necessarily stylish...proved me wrong again! (Like you did with the jumpsuits :-))

Linda T said...

Those are real winners! Wonderful fit. Hopefully, they won't feel too scratchy as they deserve to be worn over and over!

Sharon said...

Great looking cargos with a very flattering fit. You are getting to know your Coverstitch well!

EmSewCrazy said...

Those look wonderful! I'm inspired to tackle my pants fitting.

Dilliander said...

Hard to beat BeaJay's comments, but they do look great Maria, this style really suits you.

Melinda said...

Those are great, love the pattern and what you've done with it!

Karen said...

Really cute pants; you are so good at getting things to fit you perfectly.

I love how dressy they are, even though they are 'cargo' pants!

Sarah Liz said...

The cargo's look wonderful - the fit is great - my DH gave me the red book for Xmas - it looks daunting, but you inspire me to dip into it.

Beth (SunnyGal Studio) said...

those look fantastic, what a great fit.

The Material Lady said...

They look great!

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