Tuesday, 22 July 2014

Coats

Two years ago I developed a bunch of Trench coat sewalong posts for McCalls 5525 
I still wear my trench and it's also a PR favouriteSo now I'm working on a couple of coats/jackets for a change. Not quick to make but rewarding to have as warm layers in the winter. Our winter lasts for all of '5 minutes' so I have to make these fast.

Jackie is one of them - and it's on sale now. 
source
Jackie has classic lines and is semi-fitted. It's a cool throw-over layer and has some detailing that can be achieved if you want to add to your sewing skills. Just think of this as a 'bit more straight stitching'.

The other jacket I'm making is Vogue 8732 by the talented Claire Shaeffer as my next Minerva make. 
source
Claire's jacket is unlined and the pocket construction has a lot of detailing. But see the forgiving back pleat and front pleats. 

I've 
  • tested the jacket pleats and taken out some of the centre back fullness 
  • adjusted the shoulder line and done the roll-shoulder adjustments to the yoke pieces. 
  • left the jacket length as is to beat the cold. 
  • decided to not add the top pockets because I don't need pockets on my chest
  • checked the sleeves and lowered the sleeve base curve by 1.5cm. You can see the pulling of the sleeve base on the picture above at the back. But it's a very simple curve change, so I'll show you that in the construction post.
  • kept the pockets on my hips. 
Here's a WIP peek at the jacket. Fabric available at Minerva Crafts UK.
I'm also binded the seam finishes on the front facing and hem. Yes. I've been using a lot of bias binding at Chez Velosewer. It's been a bias binding making hive all year really.

21 comments:

Jenny said...

I noticed the Jackie pattern the other day.... SO CUTE! I was going to make a New York Cape with some coating that I picked up for a song from the Salvos, but now I'm torn! Decisions!

Kaitlyn Emmett said...

The coat you are making looks great, I love the idea of outerwear in florals

beajay said...

Very nice indeed and so needed for our weather now.

Sharon said...

What are you making the Jackie coat out of? Like the floral for the Claire Shaeffer pattern and really love the details she shares in her patterns.

Lori said...

Those will be beautiful jackets. I had to laugh, 5 minutes of winter!

MushyWear said...

Looking good so far! Both coats will be such a nice addition to your winter wardrobe.

Measure Twice Cut Once said...

oh I will be reading these with great interest as I need a new coat for my next trip to the UK. I have the fabric but haven't decided on a style yet except that pockets are an absolute must have.

Velosewer said...

At least you have a worthwhile winter in Melbourne to have a warm coat/cape. And your decision time is a bit longer than our 5 minutes worth of winter:)

Velosewer said...

Thanks. I'm very influenced by the warm northern hemisphere weather.

Velosewer said...

Thanks.

Velosewer said...

A warm coloured coating fabric.

Velosewer said...

You'll have to come here and laugh at our winter too:)

Velosewer said...

Thanks.

Velosewer said...

Definitely. You could decide to make double pockets. Now you've got me thinking :)

sewhopeful said...

I really love that trench coat, the colour is just amazing. If I ever make a trench I love that your blog has all the posts and info I need for that. That floral for your Vogue jacket looks amazing and very on trend. I am REALLY looking forward to that reveal. And I am loving your new menu bar.

Hoffi Coffi said...

It's funny to think about winter as it's summer here! The coats look great and I look forward to reading about your progress.

Velosewer said...

Thanks HC. Coming home to the cold snapped me into coat sewing quickly:)

Velosewer said...

Thanks for helping me create the new menu.
I think we gravitate to the same colours:))

Thewallinna said...

Good! I am all hears (or rather eyes!). Last year a trench coat was on my sewing list but because of the move back to Europe it never came to life. Not only I will be checking your current progress but also referring to the sew along!

Sam said...

I love the look of the Jackie coat, although coats with less than full length sleeves do mystify me somewhat!

Can't wait to see your floral jacket revealed in all its glory, that fabric is lovely.

Kristy Chan said...

good luck in getting a winter coat made while it's still cold enough to wear it! It will be hard to top that purple trench though, it's a great jacket

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