Friday, 1 August 2014

Jackie: roll shoulder adjustment

Jackie has raglan sleeves and I still need to make a roll shoulder adjustment so let me show you how.
The adjustment above is from my adjustment reference book: Fitting and pattern alterations: A multi-method approach to the art of style selection, fitting and alteration by E. Liechty, J. Rasband and D. Pottberg-Steineckert. Expensive book to buy but used a lot. 

In the photo above, the red marks above show where to add room at the seam line and where to cut hinges to do this. The cross marks indicate where you take room out at the seam line.
Above is my crude way of doing this. So I added 1.5cm for the back seams on the back piece and back seam on the sleeve and then excess removed from the front seams (1.5cm) using hinges.
That's all I needed to change for a roll shoulder on a raglan sleeve.

And as we head into the weekend, here's what Janelle, Lena and I have covered.
Printing your pattern. 

I bet you've already finished your Jackie just in time for the cold spell we're having right now.

5 comments:

Anne Elliot said...

Thank you for the tip re roll shoulder adjustment. I have referred a lot to "Fitting and pattern alterations." But while you jave all had a wonderful weekend, I have been sick as a dog. This is my first Internet use since before the weekend. I will be the laggard now. Is anyone else intending to participate, I wonder.

Velosewer said...

Oh Anne. I'm so sorry you've been unwell. Both Janelle and I were struck down from the lurgy last week too so please don't rush to finish your jacket. Get better soon.
Our posts will still be online waiting for you when you're sewing-ready.
I hadn't looked at the raglan adjustment either so I'm really pleased that 'Fitting and pattern alterations' is so comprehensive. You can refer to it more than once.
Cheers.

Anne Elliot said...

Maria, did you also do the forward shoulder alterations on the sleeve?

Anne Elliot said...

Glad it worked out for you! I didn't like the line of the front body seam - very steep shape - , so have now reversed that. I suppose that leaves taking the 1 1/2cm out on the sleeve side. Hmmm, ridiculous to judge anything in my curtain muslin. Bad choice. I am going to do a proper muslin and get that sleeve right (the forward shoulder was not really the big problem, although mine is quite pronounced), my notched cuffs tested (I will resort to two-part sleeve) and see if I can remember how to draft a collar. Not to mention a possible increase in swing. Just taking my time... Sorry to see no other participants and I am not even rushing. And have recovered, so now I have some work to catch up on.

Velosewer said...

Take your time Anne.
I'd love to see the curtain version:)

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