Tuesday, 7 April 2015

Quart Coat: Autumn

Finally Autumn has arrived and I've jumped into coat making - Paulinealice Quart coat.
I hope you've already read Sewmanju's Quart Coat review. Or maybe Claire's review. There are a bunch of great Quart Coats around now. Beth's reviews have lots of good.

Paulinealice Quart Coat is certainly distinctive and requires good sewing skills to achieve but she's done the leg work with her pattern pieces (separate lining pieces with wiggle room) and since the Quart Coat was launched last year, Pauline has developed a few more distinct styles from this pattern.

Did you see her biker jacket version? She's such a helpful designer that Pauline has posted a 'how to' so you can create your own biker jacket version.

Pitt Trading

The first Autumn fabric haul at Pitt Trading was too good to ignore and coats are something I adore making because of the work that goes into them. Each coat extends my sewing skills - or at least that's what motivates me to keep making coats and jackets. Thank you again Pitt Trading for these fabrics and notions.

If you're looking at planning posts, Sewmanju, Claire and Beth have great posts to learn from.

Dualling coats

I did test this pattern on some navy wool fabric I purchased in New York two years ago. Let me clarify this. I wanted to test and practice bound buttonholes, the pleats, check the centre back seam and following the sleeve zipper instructions correctly on the real version. 
The test navy coat
I do make a lot of mistakes and my handy unpicker saved me on a number of occasions as I wanted to get the stitching right. Having a test coat prepped at the same time as the real coat let me relax a bit when I started working on the 'real' fabric. So I was sewing 'in parallel'.

Once I had constructed the sleeves and bound buttonholes I got stuck into the real coat. The real fabric from Pitt Trading was much easier to work with. There are lines in the weave so I used this as an additional sewing guide.

Bound buttonholes
The technique Pauline suggests is easy to follow. You can make this coat without bound buttonholes but I decided to include these. After practising on the navy test version, my bound buttonholes became more accurate. Both fabrics had varying thicknesses and movement so when I sewed machine buttonholes on the epaulets, they were a welcome relief. Making bound buttonholes means I have to be accurate (#anxiety) and hand stitch them closed (#sorefingers). 

Swayback adjustment

On the pattern, the centre back is cut on the fold. To cater for my sway back, I've created a centre back seam to follow my curve ie no fabric pooling. Yay.


I love epaulets. I added a longer epaulet to the centre back waist as an additional military feature. Pauline suggests using the lining as the underside of the epaulets. I did this on the grey version but I used a lighter weight dark purple for the navy version.


On the test version, the pleats threw me. They have to point to the back so by the time I made them with the real fabric, they worked out.
The ironing press made these pleats a whole lot sharper. I'll be using the old ironing press again for a future pleated project #hint.
As Beth did, I initially sewed the lining onto the pleats and then I took them off.

Petite change

The only change was to make the pocket bag shallower, but still keeping the bag part, if that makes sense. 
I left the coat length, sleeve length and collar width as is. When is frightfully cold, this coat style is going to come into it's own. 

The main part I focused on was getting the shoulder positioning and kept the lengths as is.

Excuse my 'zipper in sleeve' joy.
Any jacket with zippers on the sleeves has me at 'hello'. 
I collect unusual zippers and buckles because they can be difficult to get when you actually need them. These zips were just what I needed for the navy version.
Pitt Trading provided me with their zippers for the grey version.
Navy coat lining.
Lining and trims
Let's just say, great colours under a dark cover keeps me motivated.

The fabric used for the grey version wasn't lining fabric but when I saw it on the shop floor at Pitt Trading both Sylvia and I loved it as lining.


Pauline suggests interfacing the hems and this gives a much sharper finish. I know a good press at the dry cleaner will make this coat look less home made. 
Thank you Pitt Trading for providing the fabrics and notions for my grey coat. Their new website is being filled with fabric every week.
Pauline's done it again with a lovely and unique coat pattern.


Amy T said...

Excellent work! I love both your lining choices. I agree it's best to practice bound buttonholes, even if you've made them before they change with every fabric!

Mrs. Smith said...

It's gorgeous!

Manju said...

Can't believe you actually made two gorgeous coats?! Fabulous. I am going to have to go back and check how Beth did the pleats - I must have missed that!

Kyle said...

WOW Maria not one but two fabulous coats! so awesome!!

Fabric Epiphanies said...

Wow you have been busy! Two coats is quite aand effort! They look fantastic and I love the pleats!

KaSchu said...

Two coats and both at the same time! That is fantastic. I love them both.

Gail said...

Autumn? I think we skipped a season and went straight to winter. Great coat. I love the little pleats on the side.

Chuleenan said...

This looks really great! And you made two! I'm impressed. Love the pleat detail.

Velosewer said...

They really do. Thanks Amy.

Velosewer said...

Thanks Mrs Smith:)

Velosewer said...

Glad you like it Melanie.

Velosewer said...

I'm stoked.

Velosewer said...

I love the coat you made recently.

Velosewer said...

I think Beth made her version after yours. Your lining looked really accurate Manju.

Velosewer said...

Cheers HC.

Velosewer said...

Hasn't the chill arrived quickly!

Velosewer said...

I bought the navy fabric from that corner fabric store near where you stayed with AP

Velosewer said...

I was pushing it but I'm glad I made these when I did.

Velosewer said...

Cheers Kathleen

Velosewer said...

You have to try this.

Velosewer said...

Glad you like these too.

Kyle said...

TrueMart! One of my favs.

Maris Olsen said...

Beautiful, Maria! LOVE it, and a great job, as usual!!

Sofie M said...

How did I miss this post! Your coat looks lovely, I wasn't convinced with the others (even Beth's) because of the pleats but I love yours. Great job... boy making two in parallel is really impressive!

Allison C said...

I can't believe you made this coat twice! The details on it really are quite unique and cute, they both look really fabulous and it's nice to be able to look forward to winter coming. I must remember to make a new coat before it gets cold next year (though Brits and Americans would laugh at my idea of cold!).


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