Thursday, 2 July 2015

Equestrian aspiration

For my Minerva projects I decided on an equestrian theme so the riding pants were a must with last month's riding jacket. Then reality set in and a 'quirky work skirt' came to mind.
I've made pants before but for a riding outfit, sleek pants are a must so I've used a double knit that has no stretch and McCalls 6404.

Equestrian riding pants

While the pants pattern is drafted for fabric with 4% stretch, it made sense to trial the pattern in a similar double knit fabric. After some tweaks, I used the partial medium hip measure and a variation of small sizing along the legs.
Riding outfit inspiration
McCalls 6404 offers 4 legging styles and I used view D.
So after trialling this pattern in another double knit, I was able to make this pair fit quite nicely.
I can walk, sit and bend in these pants, which I wouldn't have been able to do if the fabric was a medium-weight woven fabric. This double knit is perfect for my equestrian idea.

Now to find 'that horse' to go with this outfit.

Quirky work skirt

Blackwatch tartan is the same fabric used for my senior school uniform jacket so I had to make a Winter skirt with a twist, or a couple of Vivienne Westwood inspired pleats.
Vivienne Westwood Anglomania skirt
I was tempted to kilt this fabric up but maths isn't my strong point so I didn't want to waste this gorgeous tartan.



So my decisions then became: one pleat for two? And do I include one pleat along the back?

I decided to place two pleats at the front and keep the back plain. So I used McCalls 9356 as my basic skirt pattern and matched up the plaids at centre back and along the flat side seam.



I placed the front pattern where I wanted the pleats to be placed.

Then I lined up the back skirt piece to the flat side seam to match the plaids.

I had to match the lines along the centre back zipper seam.

So my decision was to figure out how to keep the front pleats in place...hand stitching.

 I hand stitched the pleat folds to the underside of the fabric.


They've stayed in place. 
The waistband plaids match the centre front skirt lines only.

The back and side seam lines match. You'll notice the hem is lower at centre back. That's my standard back hemline.

And I wanted to show you the zipper and waistband matching. I hand sewed the waistband for accuracy. The lining is light-weight but strong wearing and easy to iron.
So here's the quirky skirt with its jacket - all safely ironed too.

There was really no need to put a pleat on the back of this skirt.


I've worn this skirt to work a few times and it's really lovely to wear.

Thank you Minerva Crafts UK for these fabrics and notions. I've got a new Winter work outfit that's already been worn quite a bit this month.

And lots of joy and happiness to Vicki and Richard on your upcoming wedding. If you love seeing wedding sewing as it happens, Annette has been blogging all of her wedding sewing for Vicki on the Minerva Craft blog page. I'm in awe of Annette's work.
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8 comments:

Tomasa said...

What a fabulous job you did on both pieces! They fit you beautifully. Bravo.

Vicki said...

Nice work with the pleats on the skirt! Works well with the jacket.

colesworth said...

You're doing well with the plaid at the moment, you need to submit some to the monthly stitch for July ;o)

Carolyn Norman said...

What a great outfit! I love how you made the pleats in the skirt...just gorgeous!

Maris Olsen said...

LOVE the pleating detail on your skirt, Maria! Really, really smart-looking outfit.

Margo Bergman said...

Fantastic skirt! Love it!

beajay said...

Fabulous. Loving the equestrian theme. That skirt rocks. Those pants will keep you nice and warm in this cold weather. Let me know when you find the horse.... love horses!

Fabric Epiphanies said...

Love the plaid skirt and the pants look great as well! A great fitting pair of knit pants is a wonderful thing at this time of the year.

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