Sunday, 13 September 2015

Shirt or blouse?

When is a blouse not a shirt? Uhm. I'm not too sure but I can say this shirt/blouse got me through PR's Sewing Bee for Round 1.
Can you see the stress on my face? I avoid contests where possible.
This fabric from White Tree Fabrics UK, was originally earmarked for a wrap blouse, until Round 1 was announced. So I put the brakes on that project and grabbed McCalls 5433 and decided on making View A with all the sleeve bells and whistles of Views B/D.
I was really, really lucky MyHung Parramatta had matching buttons.
What was my challenge?
  •   Picking the style for this fabric
  •   Using the fabric to highlight its print
  •   Not this shirt look like a PJ shirt
  •   Making it fit me again
  •   Picking the seam finishes because this shirt is going to be inspected inside and out!
I’ve been working with Liberty prints lately so I cut out each body pieces separately and tried to match the print lines. They run diagonally.
Top Left clockwise: buttons on cuff; collar on shirt; two part collar; cutting front bodice
However there’s a button tab so I decided to cut this piece a wee bit longer to accommodate matching or not matching the print. My plan was to place the shirt buttons on the flowers of the print.

So technically, this is a shirt.  But I still can't tell you when a blouse is not a shirt.
An inside view
The inside of the back.
The seams are French seams. I machine felled the sleeve seam allowances to the shirt.
The collar, collar band, button tabs, cuffs and sleeve band are interfaced.
This progress shot showed me I was on the right pattern placement track.
Fit adjustments
Roll shoulder on the shoulder seams and sleeve curve. I left the sleeve length long so I can roll it up to bracelet length when I need to.
This already had a centre back seam to accommodate my sway back.

To make sure I could size this up at the hips, I cut a 12 at the hips.
A back view shot for fit.
Long story short, once I finished this shirt and took the photos I wore the shirt the next day at work. Well I felt it was too loose at the front, I before work I sewed the front dart in by 1cm and it fit a whole lot better but there were no ripples.
So I tried to smile but 'sheesh', this is stressful.
The ladies at work love my shirt. The roll up sleeves were just what I needed to work at my desk and I did not dirty my sleeves. I hate cleaning cuffs on business shirts and I don't intend on ruining this shirt simply because I love wearing it.

Sue and Yoshimi got through to Round 2 with over 40 others who burnt the candle at both ends to get through. There were 116 of us who were judged in Round 1.

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