Saturday, 12 December 2015

Princess line bathers

The prospect of celebrating Christmas by the water made me realise I needed something festive so I've used the last piece of my red marakesh fabric from Pitt Trading for a new pair of bathers.



Kwik Sew's Swim and Action Wear book has a classic princess line swimsuit that I tested using a possible Christmas colour - green.The green test version is wearable and this version gave me the tweaks I needed to make the marakesh bathers work.
This test version is not lined and uses three lycra remnants of varying weights.The green wave print is a lighter-weight knit to the solid colour fabrics so it should have had a second layer underlining it to balance its weight against the other fabrics. Live and learn.
On swimwear, I also exaggerate the derriere curve as you can see on the test pair above. I added the bust cups to the soft bust shelf.
I joined the crotch piece to the front to eliminate this seam.
On this test version 
- I realised that cutting the medium size was a tad too big, so I sewed in the centre back and side seams. 
- the princess line seam at the armhole was loose so I sewed this seam in closer
- I shortened the straps but then had to lower the armhole curve.

These changes were added to the pattern pieces.
The things I couldn't fix on the green test version:
- angle in the straps so they don't slip off my shoulders
- fully line this next version. I don't like unpicking lots of overlocking so the test version remained unlined but is usable.

Testing swimwear:
Before adding the elastic finishing, I try on my bathers.
The derriere curve is lower on this pair too. It's now a standard adjustment I do on the paper pattern at the start of the project. 
Here are the finished pattern pieces with all the elastic lengths noted and the stitch lengths for future reference.

I love the lycra print fabrics Pitt Trading bought this year. They brought in a stack a medium weight lycra prints and they're perfect for supportive bathers.

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