Thursday, 5 May 2016

Dauntless jacket

Burda 7140 was my choice to make this jacket like those worn in 'Divergent'. 

This grey wool fabric and paisley lining are from Minerva Crafts UK and they're great to sew and feel lovely.

With the prospect of Winter this jacket style is still dark and has a hint of red. Why be grey just because it's Winter.

Vicki was generous with these fabrics so there's a skirt underway.


The pattern

It took a test jacket to reveal a challenge sewing the front lining pieces.

The lining instructions were a bit odd. I couldn't follow the order of construction because the instructions kept flipping between views.
So I went with simply prepping the bodice and peplum together for the main construction.


Burda does a great job with their pattern drafts and the test jacket was easy enough to conquer. I really didn't want to waste this fabric supplied by Minerva Crafts so a test jacket took the pressure off this project.

Jackets with zippers are my fav too and I sew on the zipper before sewing the side seams so the fabric pieces were still flat.


I love the 'sharp'
 style options in this pattern. 
Paisley lining
The paisley lining is lovely to work with and such a classic. They've only just brought these lining in so I made sure I could use this lining for this jacket. 

I'll be using this paisley lining again for next month's project. In the lining weave the threads are two colours used in the weave so these linings are versatile for lots of fabrics.

Pattern alterations 
I made the 12 at the bust to 14 size at the waist and hips with no alterations for the test version.


The test jacket fit well enough but I added 2cm on the peplum hems and removed 4 cm from the sleeve lengths. I also extended the raglan shoulder seam by 2cm so it matched my shoulders. 

The pockets were a must, so I grabbed the side front peplum piece to figure out how much room I had. Then I used my Clover curve template to develop this pocket pattern.

The raglan shoulder seam was a bit slim so I took out more seam allowance.
The sleeve width from the elbow to the wrist is size 10.


My original reason for using this pattern took a bit of thought to develop. Sewing the test jacket was worth doing so don't rush this pattern if you want to make up. This style has quite a few style possibilities and can be made more 'girlie' if you want it to be.

Thank you Minerva Crafts UK.
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