Thursday, 2 June 2016

A coat with colour

This week Winter came to Sydney and my new teal coat using Minerva Crafts fabric is ready.
I call this fabric friendly coating because if you're scared to make a coat, this fabric can be easily molded into shape as you sew.
The weave is firm, open and soft. It looks like a knit fabric but it's woven.
When I needed to ease the sleeve into the jacket, the fabric was quite obliging and sat in across all the notches. Hand-stitching the lining and the press studs didn't tire out my fingers and that's why I felt this fabric is friendly.

Paisley lining
Minerva Crafts has recently purchased a huge range of paisley linings. Finding a matching lining for this coating would have driven me to distraction and this antique gold that was easy to choose from their website.
Butterick 6062 is a classic styled jacket but I prefer to use it for coats. There's just enough shaping for my height.
Thick fabric This coating is thick. Very thick so that can seem scary. How will my little sewing machine cope with sewing through 4 to 8 layers of this fabric?
The collar is where I had to sew through many layers of this coating. But I simply slowed down my sewing machine speed dial; took in a deep breath; relaxed; and started sewing slowly. Slower than usual.

This coating doesn't fray so it held together nicely as I sewed through each construction stage.

Collar
I bet you noticed Butterick 6062 doesn't have a collar? You were right. It doesn't.
When I made the Burda jacket last month, the collar pattern was a simple rectangle folded lengthways and sewed onto the neckline. Such a simple concept!

That's all I did.

Prepwork
While there are always constructions hurdle to tackle as you sew a coat, I love the detailing.
This is where I can add or subtract the details I want to add.
I really don't like patch pockets. You have to be accurate and I'd love to find a patch pocket pattern where the lining doesn't peek over the pocket opening.
Once I start sewing on the Berisford grosgrain ribbon, I got an idea of how the coat might look.

Interfacing
The pattern suggests minimal interfacing, but it suggests softer fabrics.
I wear coats and jackets all the time and what makes them long-lasting is using interfacing to keep it's shape for longer.

There's interfacing in the collar, on the facings and I've added interfacing across the front and back shoulders. 

The interfacing Minerva Crafts provided was a medium-weight iron-on woven. It irons on easily with some steam. The interfacing glue doesn't seep onto my iron. 

The prospect of sewing welt buttonholes wasn't in my plans because this fabric is quite thick so I chose these 15mm Prym snaps.
We don't have a lot of Prym products in Australia so it's a treat to be able to use these for this coat. They were easy to sew on too.

Thanks for keeping me warm again this Winter Minerva Crafts!

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