Thursday, 3 November 2016

Lollipop print

My new dress pattern ‘de jour’ is New Look 6000 using this lollipop tree print from Minerva Crafts UK. This style is a basic dress block with a few variations and it’s really easy to customise to your shape. 
Earlier this year I used this fabric for a retro blouse. Jo originally used this fabric for an a-line dress which looked fabric. She does influence my style choices.

Making this fabric dress-worthy
The pattern recommends a medium weight fabric and this fabric is light weight so it was a ‘no-brainer’ to fully line this dress to give it more body. 
Here are the prepped pieces.

I only lined the main dress and not the sleeves.

Interfacings and finishing touches
The sleeve cuff needed a very strong interfacing so that it looks sharp, so I used a paper type interfacing and these cuffs have really kept their shape. I normally used a softer interfacing but this paper style iron on interfacing worked was the perfect solution.
I used strips of interfacing to stabilise the neckline, the centre back seams and the centre back split.

My button stash came in handy on this occasion. I only had two of these buttons and they are a bit like the lollipop tree so that’s what I used.
My overlocker ‘spat the dummy’ and didn’t play nice so I used french seams on the sleeves. I haven’t finished the dress seams because the dress in lined and the fabric doesn’t unravel easily.
Because this is an all-over pattern I used a pale-coloured piping at the neckline.
Pattern adjustments:
I used the size 10 at the neckline; size 12 at the bust and used size 14 at the hips.
Then I shortened the bust dart by 2.5cm. 

I also shortened the sleeve length so it hit my arm at the right spot.
The dress length from the waist is 50cm and I shape the back hem so it doesn’t sit too high up and looks even from the side.
Here's how the sway back adjustment turned out.

The v-neckline was easy to achieve by folding the pattern into a v-shape based on how low I wanted it to be. In this case it’s 10cm below the bodice neckline. 
These sleeves sewed in really easily.
I took a lot of care to mark the notches but I still double check as I sew.
There have been times when I sew the cuffs in the wrong way.
As you can see, the fit is great.
The shaping worked.
The other beauty of this fabric is you can't see the creases so it will be brilliant as an office dress.

Thank you Minerva Crafts for this fabric.

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